Limousin to Normandy

Saturday 5 July

We drove into Montbron, our nearest town, this morning in search of the market.   We walked around and couldn’t find anything so in the end asked.   A lady pointed us in the right direction and off we went.   The market consisted of 4 stalls, well actually 2 stalls plus one in the back of a van and one on spread on a carpet!!   Didn’t stay long then went to the Supermarket.

In the afternoon we set out on a local walk from the site along the River Tardoire.  It seemed like hard work, though it was actually very easy in comparison the Pico’s.  Lovely countryside around here. 

Nothing exceptional, just rolling hills and wooded valleys.  In the evening we wandered down to the bar to watch Holland play Costa Rica in the World Cup.   It was packed as there are a large number of Dutch people on the site, and the staff were wearing orange T-shirts in support.   We enquired if the Wimbledon’s men final would be on tomorrow and were told it would be “no problem”.

Sunday 6 July

The day dawned fair but did not stay that way.  It was soon raining.   We updated the blog and in the afternoon Sarah went to watch the Wimbledon final.  I joined her for a while as this is only place you can get wifi, but when the battery ran out on the laptop I retreated.   She was the only person there to start with but people trickled in until there was a decent audience.     The World Cup and Wimbledon have been good for the bar trade, their takings should be up.

Monday 7 July

Set off to visit Brantome today.   This is a ridiculously pretty town over the border in The Dordogne.   It is almost surrounded by the River Drome and is nicknamed the Venice of Perigord, which is stretching it a bit; though you can take a boat trip powered by two men punting.  

Brantome

The town boasts a large Church and monastery, lovely riverside walks and narrow streets.   We stopped for lunch by the River and ordered a salad to try and be healthy.   When they arrived they were huge.   Mine included about 2 lbs of potatoes.

After lunch we drove on to St Jean de Cole which is named as one of France’s most beautiful villages and it certainly was.   They do seem to have trouble with the Church though.   Twice the dome has collapsed and had to be rebuilt.   Last time they added more columns to support the dome and it seems to be holding up, though there were some nasty cracks in the walls.  Apparently some years ago the village won the 'Finest Roofs' in France competition.   Seems a strange thing to have a competition for and we could not quite work out why it won.

Just Chillin' Out in Brantome

Earlier in the day we noticed that the evenings ‘Animation’ was wooden games. We arrived not sure what to expect. Should we bring a pen knife to whittle down some wood or would a router be useful. Then it all became clear. It was exactly as advertised -  20 games made of wood. There was skittles, quoits and one where you had to pile wooden cows on a wooden mountain, a bit like Buckaroo.   The games didn’t belong to the site but seemed to be hired from a chap in a white van trading under the name of ‘Wooden Games’.  So – there’s an original business opportunity for anyone handy with a saw and in possession of a white van

Shortly after arriving back at the caravan our neighbour, a French lady approached me and asked if I was afraid of spiders. I hesitantly replied no. Why? Because there is a very large one in my tent and I am very afraid of them. I tried to catch the spider but it got in between the layers of wall separating the rooms.  (This is actually an Ecolodge. Like a tent but with a wooden frame covered by PVC material.)  So I sprayed liberally with insect repellent and left the can with her in case it reappeared.  She said she tries not to pass her fear on to her daughter Mathilde who is about 5 but couldn’t deal with it herself.

Tuesday 8 July

Our neighbour said that the large spider had not re appeared but there was a smaller one. So she slept with the light on.

It was a fairly bright morning so we went out for a walk.   However, this afternoon it rained so I have spent my time taking the seats and the bed apart trying to stop them creaking. We have a Bailey Unicorn Valencia and I must say that after only 3 years it is beginning to show its age. Window catches are breaking and the damn thing creaks like a Spanish Galleon. I have however addressed the creaking issue by placing plastic tape between the walls and the seat supports which rub against the walls. This is on top of the recall due to an issue with the wheel bolts and water ingress into the floor beneath the forward exterior lockers. I will not buy another Bailey.

Wednesday 9 July

After our rather disappointing market experience on Saturday we set out to the one in Piegut which is said to the best in the area.   It was certainly much more extensive, it seemed to go on for miles.  Quite a few stall holders were British, one was even selling pork pies and pasties. I was tempted.   We stocked up on fruit and veg and a few Sarah fripperies such as a new handbag. Which once again I didn’t know we needed.

In the afternoon we decided to visit the Chateau in the town of La Rochefoucauld.  

This Chateau is quite impressive and has been in the same family for over a 1000 years.   They are now on their 19^th Duke.    A guided tour of the libraries was included.   They have installed underfloor heating in some the rooms to protect the books of which there are thousands, the oldest being from the 1600’s hand written in Latin.   They also had a room full of archive material dating back as far as the 1300’s, accountants, letters, property deeds etc.   On the tour with us was a Dutch family.   They had a daughter of about 12 who was really interested and asked lots of questions in English.   Sarah was chatting to her and the girl said she was amazed at the good condition of the books, particularly the one in Latin.   Sarah jokingly asked if she spoke Latin, to which the reply was “no but my brother does”.   Sarah complemented her on her excellent English and asked if she had learnt it as school – “I taught myself” came the reply.   This made us both feel rather inadequate.

Thursday 10 July

We set out this morning on a walk which on the leaflet said was 14km.   I had worked out a possible short cut but it was a lovely day so we decided to do the whole walk.   The Countryside is gently rolling so the walking isn’t difficult but we were ready for a sit down on our return.

Not for the first time we walked 14km and saw no one. 

Another rush hour in rural France

It was a nice day and this is the peak holiday season in France yet the place is deserted. You don’t see anyone pushing a pram, there are no old men playing boules and despite the fact that we are surrounded by farmland we have only seen one farmer feeding his cows. Some of the properties are clearly holiday homes and many owned by the English but it is weird.

This evening’s entertainment included Sarah performing her routine on a trampoline followed by a BBQ and a band.  It was held outside which was a downside as it was quite chilly.  Sarah had 3 layers on and took along a fleece as well.    The food and entertainment were ok but we sat at a table with 2 other English couples and had a pleasant evening.

Friday 11 July

Sarah could not be kept away from the washing machine in the Intermarche car park any longer.  We washed the equivalent of 3 loads together which I am told is much more economical.  We shopped while it washed and had coffee while it dried.   Wardrobes and drawers fully restocked.

When we got back to the site I had to swerve to avoid hitting a llama. I wondered what the hell was going on then we noticed them erecting a circus tent. Something I have never before witnessed on a campsite.  Apparently they come once a week in high season.   We missed the actual show as we thought it was at 8pm, but seemingly it was at 6pm. They arrived at 4pm and were gone by 9pm.

Saturday 12 July

Some time ago I heard about a village which had been demolished by the Germans but left exactly as it was in 1944.   I discovered it was just a few miles away so we decided we wanted to see it. So today we visited the village of Oradour Sur Glane.   

This is a village where 642 of its inhabitants were massacred on 10 June 1944.   A regiment from the SS Panzer Division arrived in the village on the pretext of undertaking an identity check but then said they were looking for weapons and explosives.   They rounded up the inhabitants and took the women and children to the Church and the men to 6 different garages and then started to kill them.   They set off a gas bomb in the Church but it didn’t work so they had to shoot the women and children and then set fire to the Church.   They shot the men and then set fires throughout the village, having looted the homes and businesses.    One woman and 5 men managed to escape.  The Division came back the next day and buried all the bodies in mass graves.  Because of this and the fires it was impossible to formally identify the bodies.   The village has been left as it was that day with houses that have collapsed and evidence of burnout cars, bikes and sewing machines.  The reason for this barbaric attack is not really known but felt to be revenge following the capture of an SS Officer by the Resistance.    There is a large memorial now listed all those who are known to have died.  The youngest being 8 days old with no first name yet given.   It is impossible to even begin to understand the unimaginable horror that occurred there and having read about the events we felt we should go and pay our respects.  Very moving.

As we were not far from Limoges we dropped in for a whistle stop tour.  We only visited parts of the old town.  During our walkabout we encountered 3 weddings, 1 in the Town Hall, 1 in the Cathedral and 1 outside the Cathedral, we think waiting to go in.   The most notable thing about the party outside the Cathedral was that we didn’t know if they were all bridesmaids but there was a number of young girls all dressed alike but didn’t look like traditional bridesmaids.   They wore white leggings, which white net skirts over the top with orange belts, white t-shirts and orange cloth waistcoats.   Orange was definitely the colour them some of the men boast oranges ties and the women orange accessories.

When we got back to the site many more families (almost 100% Dutch) had arrived to take up residence in the various bungalows and Ecolodges. There are still many vacant touring pitches and the place is still peaceful. But it does feel like a small Dutch village.

Sunday 13 July

It rained and rained and rained!!

Monday 14 July

Bastille Day and therefore a Bank Holiday in France.  We thought it would be busy like it is on a BH at home especially after the atrocious weather of yesterday.   It was so quiet – there were virtually no cars on the road, and nobody about.   We did a walk from the village of St Bartolomey.   In the afternoon we packed away the awning ready to move on to our last but one stop. 

Camping Gorges du Chambon

We enjoyed our stay at Camping du Chambon very much. A lovely relaxing site which is well maintained. The only thing which let it down was the standard of cleaning of the sanitary facilities. I know this is a regular gripe but we expect better of a 4 star site.

Tuesday 15 July

We drove from Montbron to Blangy le Chateau in Normandy, a total of 309 miles.   It was a bit of slog but we decided we rather do the journey in one day and get ourselves settled for a while.   The site – Camping Le Brevedent is a 4* site, set in the grounds of a Chateau which now houses the bar.  There is a small lake which you can take a canoe out on.   We were given a map which showed which pitches were available so we had a walk around to look at them.   We did find one that would do but also found one that wasn’t on the list but which was much bigger.    We knew it was big enough as on the pitch next door was a van the same as ours with its awning up and room for the car.   We went back to reception and asked if there was any chance we could it.   The receptionist called the owner over, would looked at the computer screen with great consideration and sighed a lot.  Eventually he said “ I will it make ok, you can have that pitch”.   This seems to be his take on most things – “it will be ok”.   He must come unstuck sometimes. 

The site is nice and has a very laid back atmosphere but it is rather scruffy round the edges.  They take a relaxed attitude to mowing and strimming. The Chateau looks like it needs a lick of paint as do most of the buildings.   Sarah is not at all impressed with the sanitary facilities.   There are 3 toilet blocks but the one near us is not good. The tiles look like they have been on for decades, the floor is constantly wet, the shower heads are all caked with lime scale and (I didn’t tell Sarah but I have twice seen a mouse in there.)   Most of the showers are push button but one has a mixed tap but the hot tap is knackered so you need to know the knack to get any hot water.   I took my screwdrivers up to see if I could adjust it but had no luck.  The other shower blocks are a little better.   The staff are very helpful and the site could be really good with a just a bit more effort.   The clientele seem to be either our age group or families with young children.  There is a good playground and some low key kids activities.  They have also got some rabbits and some very cute baby guinea pigs – so Sarah says!!   The site is busy but remarkably quiet. However, I have made a mental note not to return. It will get a poor review.  

Wednesday 16 July

I was horrified this morning to discover that inflation in Normandy has increased by 10% Yes, the cost of a baguette is now 1.10 euros. Outrageous. On the positive side they are at least 6 inches longer.

Drove into the nearby village of Blangy Le Chateau this morning.   It is extremely pretty.   Most of the buildings in this area are half timbered, some with thatched roofs.  

The village has a stream running through and there are hanging baskets and flower troughs everywhere.   The lady in the Tourist Office was very helpful and we came away armed with maps and leaflets.  Apparently there is painter’s day in the village on Sunday which culminates with a firework display in the evening, so we will definitely go along to that.

After a run to the supermarket we set out on a walk from the site.   It was really interesting as we passed many attractive buildings and walked through farm land and by apple orchards.  However we did cheat a little by cutting a corner as it was very hot.   On return to the site we sank into a deck chair outside the site café and had a glass of local cider – very good.

On the pitch next to us are Derek and Mary a very friendly couple with a van the same as ours.   I remarked that the van looked very clean and shiny.   It turned out that this was because quite a lot of it is new.  Last year in France a hailstorm swept through the site they were on with hail as big as golf balls.   They did not quite puncture the roof, but nearly.   The side without the awning on was also badly damaged.  Their awning was just shredded, as were many people’s tents.   They have just got the van back from Bailey after being rebuilt.

Thursday 17 July

Went back into the village as it was market day.   This consisted of 4 stalls – 1 fruit and veg, 1 fish, 1 cheese and milk and one selling home made jam and honey.   We had to sit down for a coffee after the excitement.

We had picked up an article on the internet a while ago suggesting some routes through various parts of Normandy.   We set off on one of these after lunch.  We drove to Beuvron en Auge  which, again, was beautiful.  

Sarah found a shop selling scarves and sun hats and was in seventh heaven.   She spent a fortune.   We then drove along through the apple orchards and villages including Cambremer. We are scratching our heads wondering why we haven’t been to this area before, we will certainly be coming back.

Tonight was mussels and chips night in the restaurant so off we went. 

Friday 18 July

Honfleur was our destination for today.   It is on the estuary of the Seine with a lock for the boats to go out to sea.   We were expecting a small town but it was quite large.   The towns and villages in France are awarded star ratings for their flower displays.  Blangy has 2* and Honfleur has 4* so you can imagine how lovely it was.  

Many buildings are very old and quite wonky.  Everytime you turned a corner there was another pretty street. Lots of character.   

We had lunch outside a restaurant whose walls seemed to leaning outwards.  The Church of St Catherine was a remarkable building as it built almost entirely of wood.   

It has twin naves and a balcony running around the edge of both.  From  the outside we thought it was the market hall!

We then drove on Trouville which is a seaside resort with a great beach.  

After a wander we decided to come back to the site as it was extremely hot.

Later in the day we had a thunderstorm.  At one point the lightening was right overhead and there was the loudest clap of thunder which caused Sarah and half the kids on the site to scream.  It really took us by surprise.    The owner here is also a musician and on a Friday night he and some friends play in the restaurant and then they have an ‘open mic’ session and anyone can get up and play.  Several campers got up and played.  One English chap had even written his own song about caravanning which was very funny.   We sat with Mary and Derek from next door on the restaurant terrace as it was too hot inside and had a really pleasant evening.